The natural cider of northern Spain — Asturias, Cantabria, and the Basque Country — made from sharp and bittersharp apples by spontaneous co-fermentation of wild yeast and bacteria. Typically a modest 5–6.5% ABV, straw to deep gold, and usually unfiltered, it is dry, bright, and tart, with a wild, rustic, lightly acetic character. Traditionally still, it is served by the high “escanciar” pour that aerates and softens it.
In the glass
Origin
Spanish cider — sidra — is the deep-rooted natural cider of northern Spain, centered on Asturias, Cantabria, and the Basque Country, where the cider house is called a sagardotegi, literally “cider place.” Basque cidermaking has medieval anchors: an envoy of King Sancho III of Navarre noted apple and cider production in 1014, the twelfth-century pilgrim Aymeric Picaud described the Basques as apple growers and cider drinkers, and cider flourished in the seafaring golden age of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when whaling and cod-fishing crews carried rations of two to three liters a day on long North Atlantic voyages. Made by natural co-fermentation of wild yeast and bacteria and usually left unfiltered, sidra takes on a wild, tart, lightly acetic character; the traditional escanciar pour — throwing the cider into the glass from height — aerates it and softens that sharpness. Asturias, which produces the great majority of Spain’s cider, gained a protected designation of origin, Sidra de Asturias, in 2003.
Notes
This is the wildest and most rustic of the traditional ciders. The acetic tang and funk that would be a fault elsewhere are part of the character here — though a cider that is simply infected or vinegary is still off. The two regional poles differ: Asturian sidra natural is the milder, floral, fruity benchmark, while Basque sagardoa is earthier, more tannic, and more sharply sour. Both are meant to be drunk young and poured from height.
Defining examples
Trabanco Sidra Natural·Zapiain Sagardoa·Barrika Basque Country Cider·Gurutzeta Sagardo Sidra Natural·Mayador Sidra Natural